Art Historical Publications
Books Mouse over the title for the link
Skilled Immigrants in the Textile and Fashion Industries: Stories from a Globe-Spanning History (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2024) This edited collection presents original research on the skills brought by immigrant communities to the textile and fashion industries, from the early modern to postmodern periods in Asia and the Islamic World, Europe, Africa, and the Americas, with a focus on Asian silk production.
Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity (Amsterdam University Press, 2023) This award-winning book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry through an examination of primary source materials, literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical study of figural silk designs. Recipient of the Henry Wasser Award for Outstanding Research (CUNY Graduate Center, 2022) and short-listed for the R.L. Shep Award for Best Book (TSA, 2023). Read Review
A Cultural History of Western Fashion: From Haute Couture to Virtual Couture (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2022) Exploring fashion’s interdisciplinary nature, this book guides you through the relationships between haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture, big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and social media.
Articles and Book Chapters
“Dervish Kings and Sufi Silk: Weaving the Image of Majnun in the Early Modern Persianate World” Objekt(Ge)Schichten (Object Stories/Layers) Ed. Baur et al. (Didymos Verlag, 2023)
“Shared Provenance: Safavid-Mughal cultural and artistic exchange through 16th and 17th c. luxury silk production” (Textile Society ofAmerica, Hidden Stories, Human Lives, 2020 Symposium)This study explores iconographic connections shred between silks produced in Safavid Iran and Mughal India, shared through migration of textile specialists [Open Access]
“Lovers, Legends, and Looms: Persian Narrative Poetry Depicted on Figural Silks in the Early Modern Period” Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies Ed. Paulicelli et al. (Routledge, 2021) A study of weavers representing poetic narratives in loom-woven silks
“Wrapped Up: Talismanic Garments in Early Modern Islamic Culture” Journal of Textile Design, Research and Practice (Issue 1, Vol. 7, 2019); Routledge/Taylor & Francis. A deep dive into the meaning and origins of wearing cloth as a taliman, and imbuing it with magic protective powers through text.
“Interwoven Lovers: Safavid Narrative Silks Depicting Characters from the Khamsa” (University of Bern, Switzerland. Ph.D. Dissertation, 2018)
The Zand Dynasty (1750-1794) Article with architectural images for Archnet, an online collaboration between the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Discusses the rise of the Zand dynasty and major architectural works completed in 18th century Iran. (2014)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art (NYC) Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History
Fashion in Safavid Iran Carrying a range of political and literary messages, fashions from Safavid Iran (1501–1722) were a versatile medium for self-expression. Safavid dress is characterized by innovative color combinations, distinctive figural motifs on fabrics, and rich texture due to the extensive use of gold- and silver-wrapped threads. Read the full article
Silk Textiles from Safavid Iran, 1501-1722 Safavid textiles are praised as the pinnacle of Iranian loom weaving. When the Safavids came to power at the turn of the sixteenth century, the Iranian textile industry was already well developed in the production and sale of woven silk textiles and rugs as well as raw silk for export. Read the full article
Silks from Ottoman Turkey Ottoman silk textiles are among the most elegant textiles produced in the Islamic world. They are characterized by large-scale stylized motifs often highlighted by shimmering metallic threads. Executed in a range of woven techniques including satin and velvet, these silks were produced for use both within the Ottoman Empire and for export to Europe and the Middle East, where they were considered among the most prized luxury objects. Read the full article
Byzantium and Islam: Age of Transition, Exhibition Blog
The Persian-Style Riding Coat While garment styles in the Late Antique world were simple in form—consisting of the T-shaped tunic for men and children, and loose, draped garments, such as the gunna and palla, for women—Persian garments of the late Sasanian period (220–650) reflect more complex tailoring and forms. Read the full article
Early Islamic Garments: Inscribed Textiles The tradition of inscribed textiles in the Islamic world dates to the passing of the Prophet Muhammad (632 A.D.), whose spiritual and political authority was transferred through the donning of his mantle. Read the full article
Fashion and Style in Byzantium Early Byzantine designs took their form and iconography from Late Antique linen garments worn throughout the Roman Empire until the fourth century. Read the full article
Dress Styles in San Vitale The pinnacle of early imperial Byzantine dress is best seen in the mosaics of Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora at the Church of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy (ca. 547 A.D.) Read the full article
Woven Silk Textiles From Byzantium Silk textiles were produced in Byzantium long before local weavers had figured out how to acquire and produce silk from silkworms. For centuries, the Chinese held a monopoly on the raw materials required to create these highly desired textiles. Read the full article
Christian Imagery on Silk Textiles: The Annunciation Silk The red Annunciation silk depicts the seated Virgin dressed in royal purple, receiving a message from the angel Gabriel, encircled by floral medallions referencing a jeweled garden. Read the full article
Donning the Cloak: Safavid Figural Silks and the Display of Identity Abbreviated publication of Master’s thesis findings for the Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 2008 (published under my former name, Nazanin Hedayat Shenasa)
Donning the Cloak: Safavid Figural Silks and the Display of Identity Master’s Thesis (full text) completed for San Jose State University, 2007 (published under my former name, Nazanin Hedayat Shenasa)